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Decking, Patio and Pergola FAQs

Planning a deck, patio or pergola raises plenty of questions. We’ve answered the ones our Sydney clients ask most, from design and materials through to approvals, quotes and aftercare. If yours isn’t here, call 02 4666 3800 or request a free quote.

Frequently Asked Questions

Size the deck around how you will use it, not around the space that is left over. As a guide, a six-seat outdoor dining setting needs roughly 3m × 3.5m so chairs can slide out and people can walk behind them, and a lounge setting or BBQ zone each needs its own clear area on top of that. During your site visit we mark the footprint out on the ground so you can see how furniture, doors and walkways will work before anything is built. Keep in mind that in NSW a deck larger than 25m² generally falls outside exempt development, so size can also decide whether approval is needed.

It is mostly a style choice. 90mm boards give a classic, finer-lined look that suits smaller decks and traditional homes. 140mm boards look more contemporary, make a space feel wider and mean fewer joins and fixings across the deck. Wider hardwood boards can show a little more seasonal movement than narrow ones, so correct fixing and good ventilation matter more. Most composite boards come in a wider profile, similar to a 140mm timber board. We bring samples in both widths to your consultation so you can compare them against your home.

Boards usually look best running parallel to the house or along the longest sightline, because that draws the eye outward and makes the deck feel larger. Direction also has a practical side. Boards run across the joists, so changing direction means changing the frame beneath them. Diagonal and herringbone layouts are possible and look striking, but they need more framing and create more offcuts, which adds cost. We recommend a direction at design stage based on your doors, your view and how water drains off the deck.

In most cases, yes. A deck can be set close to your internal floor level so the two spaces flow together. How flush it can go depends on your door threshold, how water drains away from the house, and keeping the clearances needed for termite inspection and sub-floor ventilation. Often the best result is a deck that sits a small step below the door sill, which keeps water out and still feels seamless. We check your floor heights and door type on site before confirming the finished level.

The details people notice are the edges and the fixings. A picture-frame border hides cut board ends, fascia boards cover the frame underneath, and a breaker board gives a long deck one neat, deliberate join instead of scattered butt joints. Hidden or carefully aligned fixings, consistent board gaps and wrapped stair treads complete the look. These touches add some labour and material, so we itemise them in your quote and you choose which ones matter to you.

Yes. Side passages and small courtyards are some of the most rewarding spaces to deck because they are so often unused. A deck can level out uneven ground, cover tired paving and turn a walkway into somewhere to sit, particularly if that strip gets good sun. Tight sites need planning around access for materials, drainage along the house and distance to the boundary, all of which we assess on site. Built-in seating and screening work well in small spaces because they save floor area.

Yes. Bench seats, lift-up storage, planter boxes and access hatches for pool equipment can all be framed into the deck so they look like part of the design. Building them in during construction costs less than adding them later, because the frame is designed to carry them from the start. Planters are lined and drained so soil and water do not sit against the deck boards. Tell us what you need to seat or store and we will design around it.

A low-level deck sits close to the ground and usually needs no stairs or balustrade. It does need careful attention to airflow, drainage and framing rated for ground contact, because there is less room underneath for moisture to escape. An elevated deck is raised on posts, which suits sloping blocks and upper-level access. It needs deeper footings, bracing, stairs and, once the fall reaches 1 metre, a compliant balustrade. It may also need an engineer’s design. Height is one of the main drivers of both cost and approvals.

Under the National Construction Code, a barrier is required wherever someone could fall 1 metre or more from the deck. On the deck itself the barrier must be at least 1 metre high, with openings small enough that a 125mm sphere cannot pass through. Where the fall is 4 metres or more, the balustrade cannot include horizontal elements that a child could use to climb. Many owners also choose a balustrade on lower decks for safety or for looks. We build every balustrade to the current code.

The main options are frameless or semi-frameless glass, stainless steel wire, timber, and powder-coated aluminium. Glass keeps the view open and suits pools and elevated decks. Wire is a lighter-looking option where the rules on climbable elements allow it. Timber and aluminium balustrades can be matched to your decking, screening or fencing for a consistent look. The right choice depends on your deck height, your view, your budget and how much cleaning you are happy to do.

Yes, provided the deck is designed for it from the start. A filled spa with people in it can weigh one to two tonnes or more, which is far beyond what a standard residential deck is framed to carry. The structure beneath needs extra posts, bearers and footings, and usually an engineer’s design. Adding a spa to an existing deck is not recommended without a structural check first. If a spa, large planter or outdoor kitchen is on your wish list, tell us at the consultation so the load is allowed for.

A gas or electric BBQ is fine on timber and composite decks when you follow the manufacturer’s clearances and use a mat to catch grease. Wood-fired pizza ovens and fire pits need more care, because embers and radiant heat can scorch timber and mark or distort composite boards. Use a fire pit only with a heat shield or fire-rated pad underneath and a spark screen on top, and never place it directly on the boards. If you want a permanent fire feature, we can design a non-combustible zone into the deck.

The area under a deck needs airflow and drainage to keep the frame dry. We prepare the ground so water runs away from the house instead of pooling, and we keep ventilation gaps around the perimeter. Weed matting and gravel can be laid under low decks to stop growth. Under an elevated deck the space can be used for storage, bins or pool equipment, and screened with battens that still let air through. We do not recommend fully enclosing the underside of a deck.

All three are dense, durable hardwoods that suit Sydney conditions. The main differences are colour and character. Merbau is a rich red-brown imported hardwood that is stable and generally the most affordable of the three. Blackbutt is an Australian hardwood with pale, even honey tones that suit modern homes. Spotted Gum, also Australian, has a wavy grain and a mix of browns from light to chocolate. All three are recognised as bushfire-resisting timbers. We bring samples so you can see each one against your home.

It can if it is not managed. Merbau contains natural tannins that leach out as a red-brown stain when new boards get wet, and that run-off can mark pavers, concrete, render and pool coping. The bleed reduces as the timber weathers and once the boards are sealed. We reduce the risk by planning where water runs off, protecting nearby surfaces during the build and coating the boards. If your deck sits above light-coloured paving or beside a pool, Blackbutt, Spotted Gum or composite may be a safer choice.

Our main composite ranges are WoodEvo and Innowood, which sit in the quality mid-range of the market. Both give you the look of timber without oiling or staining, and both come in a range of colours and finishes, including grooved profiles suited to pool areas. We choose products we are confident will perform in Sydney conditions and that carry a manufacturer’s warranty, which we explain at quote stage. If you have another product in mind, ask us and we will tell you whether it suits your site.

Composite decking goes through some initial weathering in its first few months as it settles to its long-term colour, which is normal. After that, good-quality capped boards hold their colour well because the outer shell protects against UV and stains. Older uncapped composites fade more noticeably. Colour stability is usually covered by the manufacturer’s warranty, so check the fade terms for the range you choose. Looking at a deck that has been installed for a year or two gives you the most realistic picture.

Generally, no. Capped composite boards have a protective outer layer with the colour and grain built in. Sanding or coating can damage that layer and may void the manufacturer’s warranty. That is the trade-off for never having to oil the deck: the colour you choose is the colour you keep. It is worth taking your time over the colour and viewing samples outdoors, in both sun and shade, next to your home’s walls and paving.

Hidden fixings give a clean, screw-free surface and are standard on most composite decks, where clips sit in grooves along the board edges. Visible stainless steel screws are the traditional choice for hardwood. They hold boards down firmly, make it easy to lift a single board later, and look neat when set out in straight lines. Near the coast or a pool we use marine-grade 316 stainless steel fixings to resist corrosion. We recommend the fixing method that suits your board and your location.

Any timber structure in Sydney needs to be built with termites in mind. We use framing timber treated to the right hazard level for its position, which means H3 above ground and H4 for posts and timber in contact with the ground, along with durable hardwood or composite boards. How the deck meets the house matters just as much. It should not bridge your home’s termite barrier or hide the inspection zone around the slab. Keep the area under the deck clear and include it in your regular pest inspections.

Yes, but the materials must suit your property’s Bushfire Attack Level (BAL). Dense hardwoods such as Blackbutt, Spotted Gum and Merbau are classed as bushfire-resisting timbers and are accepted up to BAL-29, while the highest ratings call for non-combustible materials or specially tested systems. Bushfire-prone land also affects approvals. For example, the NSW exempt development rules require a deck within 5 metres of the house to be non-combustible. We check your property’s bushfire mapping at quote stage and specify materials to match.

For a deck to qualify as exempt development in NSW, meaning no council approval is needed, it generally must sit at least 900mm from each boundary on a standard residential lot, or 5 metres in rural and large-lot zones. It also has to stay behind the building line of any road frontage. A deck closer to the boundary may still be possible, but it will need formal approval, and privacy for your neighbours becomes part of the assessment. We measure your setbacks on site before we design.

Not always. In NSW, pergolas and patio covers fall under the same exempt development rules as decks. Broadly, the structure must be no more than 25m² in area, no higher than 3 metres above ground, at least 900mm from boundaries on a standard residential lot and behind the front building line. There are also limits on the total area of these structures on your lot, and extra conditions for heritage and bushfire-prone properties. Anything outside those limits needs a complying development certificate or a development application. We confirm which pathway applies before finalising your design.

Usually yes, but you will need written approval from your owners corporation first. In most strata schemes, courtyards and balconies involve common property, so a new deck normally needs a by-law or a formal approval at a general meeting, on top of any council requirements. Community title estates often have design guidelines covering materials and colours as well. We can supply drawings, specifications and our licence and insurance details to support your application.

It can. A pool barrier in NSW must be at least 1.2 metres high, measured from the finished surface outside the fence, with a 900mm non-climbable zone. A new deck, step or built-in seat beside the fence raises the ground level at that point and can make a previously compliant fence too low, or give children a foothold. We design pool-side decks with the barrier in mind and can build or adjust glass and pool-compliant fencing as part of the same project.

It can come up. A buyer’s solicitor or building inspector may ask whether structures on the property were approved or built as exempt development, and an unapproved deck can delay a sale or become a negotiating point. Where a deck needed approval and does not have it, the usual remedy is a building information certificate from council. The simplest protection is to confirm the approval pathway before building and to keep your contract, plans and any certificates on file.

Yes. After the site visit you receive a written, itemised, fixed-price quote that sets out the materials, the scope of work and line items such as demolition, disposal and site clean-up if requested. That price does not change unless the scope changes. That could be because you ask for something extra, or because we uncover something that could not be seen at quote stage, such as rock where footings need to go or hidden damage in an existing frame. Any change is priced and agreed with you in writing before the work is done.

Yes, within reason. Changes are easiest and cheapest before materials are ordered and the frame goes up, so raise them as early as you can. Once construction is under way, a change such as a larger footprint, different boards or extra stairs is handled as a written variation, which sets out the cost and any effect on timing for you to approve first. Some changes can also affect the approval pathway, and we will flag that before you commit.

It depends on your block. On flat, well-drained ground, paving or concrete is often cheaper upfront. On a sloping or uneven site the answer often reverses, because a deck spans the slope on posts while paving needs excavation, fill and retaining walls first. A deck can also sit level with your indoor floor, which is hard to achieve with paving where the house is raised off the ground. Many of our projects combine the two, with a deck off the house stepping down to paving or lawn.

Yes, and planning it properly at the start saves money later. If you want a deck now and a pergola, patio roof, screening or lighting later, we can design the whole area up front and build in what the later stages will need: larger footings, posts positioned for a future roof, and conduit for future lighting. That avoids lifting boards or re-engineering the frame down the track. Tell us your full wish list at the consultation, including the parts you are not ready for yet.

A member of our team visits your home to look at the space, take measurements and talk through how you want to use it. We check levels, access for materials, drainage, boundaries and anything that could affect approvals, and we bring decking samples so you can compare colours and board widths in your own light. It helps to have a rough budget, a few inspiration photos and, if you have one, a site plan or survey. The visit is free, and your written quote follows.

No. Many of our clients are at work while we build. We need clear access to the work area, power and water, and a way to reach you by phone if a decision comes up. Before we start, we will ask you to move furniture, pot plants and vehicles out of the way and to tell us about pets, locked gates and anything fragile near the work zone. We keep you up to date as the job progresses.

Outdoor building work depends on the weather. Light rain does not always stop framing, but heavy rain, saturated ground and high winds can make the site unsafe or affect the quality of footings, coatings and finishes, so we pause when we need to. That is why we give you a realistic build window at quote stage and not a guaranteed finish date. If the weather causes a delay, we tell you promptly, protect the work already done and return as soon as conditions allow.

Our own team. Adora Decks does not subcontract its building labour, so the same crew works on your project from the first footing to the final board, and every job is supervised to our standards. Where a licensed specialist trade is required, such as an electrician for lighting, we arrange it for you. You deal with one company throughout, and the work is carried out under our NSW builder licence (451245C) and insurance.

A new hardwood deck needs a protective coating early in its life. Some oils can go on immediately, while others perform better once the timber has weathered for a few weeks, which lets natural tannins leach out and helps the coating soak in properly. The right timing depends on the timber species and the product. We apply a finishing coat as part of the build and give you care guidance at handover, including when your first maintenance coat is due.

For most hardwood decks we recommend a penetrating decking oil. It soaks into the timber, shows off the natural grain and is easy to maintain, because you clean the deck and apply a fresh coat without stripping it back. Stains add colour and can even out mismatched boards. Paint and other film-forming coatings give a solid colour but can peel under foot traffic and sun, and they need sanding back when they fail. A lightly pigmented oil gives better UV protection than a clear one.

Yes, with care. Use a low pressure setting and a fan nozzle, keep the nozzle at least 30cm from the surface and work along the length of the boards. High pressure held close will fur up timber fibres, strip the coating and can etch the cap on composite boards. For routine cleaning, a soft broom, a bucket of deck cleaner and a hose is safer and usually all you need. Always check the manufacturer’s care guide before pressure-washing composite decking.

The gaps are deliberate. They let rainwater drain, allow air to circulate and give the boards room to expand and contract. Timber is a natural material that takes on and releases moisture with the seasons, so small changes in gap width, fine surface cracks (known as checking) and slight colour variation are normal and do not affect the deck’s strength. Keeping your deck coated slows moisture movement and reduces checking. Boards that cup badly, lift or split right through should be looked at.

They can, but it is easy to prevent. Pots that sit directly on the boards trap moisture and leave dark rings or mould, so raise them on pot feet or stands and use saucers that do not overflow. Rubber-backed mats can discolour both timber and composite, so choose breathable outdoor mats and move them now and then. Fit protective pads under furniture legs and lift furniture when you move it. Rearranging things occasionally also helps the deck weather evenly.

Green growth and slippery patches are caused by mould and algae feeding on dirt and moisture, usually in shaded or damp spots. Sweep leaves off regularly, keep the gaps between boards clear so water drains, and wash the deck a few times a year with a deck cleaner. Trimming back overhanging plants lets in sun and air. Decking oils with a mould inhibitor help on timber, and grooved or textured boards give better grip in areas that stay wet. Composite decks need the same routine cleaning.