Deck Renovation And Maintenance Specialists Restoring Tired Timber Decks Across Sydney.

DECK MAINTENANCE

HARDWOOD DECK MAINTENANCE

Frequent wetting of decks should be avoided (sweep or clean, don’t hose). Adequate ventilation should be provided to allow rapid drying after rain or watering. Pot plants should be on trays and prevented from overflowing. Shrubs which permanently shade the deck and creepers on rails etc. should be avoided.

Reapplication of finishes will be required at regular intervals, depending on finish type and degree of exposure. Before recoating all decks shall be thoroughly cleaned and debris removed from between boards. For some finishes, decks may also require sanding. Recoating shall be carried out in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations.

Hardwood timber decking boards will maintain their appearance and form for a longer period of time if they’re covered by a roof. Whilst this isn’t always possible, a timber deck that is covered can deliver enormous benefits to the homeowner, namely:

  • The decking boards will not have to be re-oiled as often if the deck is protected from the full exposure of the weather.
  • As the boards won’t be exposed to the full weather extremes they won’t expand/contract as much, thereby reducing the likelihood of timber splitting, warping, cupping etc.
  • The deck will require less cleaning – less leaves and dust will collect on the deck if the area is covered.
  • A covered timber deck can be used all year round which adds to the liveability of the home

If the Decking area cannot be covered it is worth considering using narrower decking boards as they shed water more readily and will therefore be less prone to warping.

FINISHING

All decks shall have a finish applied as protection against the weathering effects of sun and rain.

Note: Unprotected timber exposed to the weather will fade to a silver-grey colour and could distort and develop splitting and surface checking.

One coat of a water repellent preservative or an oil-based primer plus one coat of the selected finish shall be applied to the top surface of joists and to all surfaces of decking (including cut ends) prior to fixing. Additional coats shall be applied (to manufacturer’s instructions) to the top surface of decking after construction.

Decking Oils / Decking Stains

Decking oils and stains are available which provide a relatively natural, semi-transparent, protective finish. Solvent (Oil) or water-based stains are available often with mould inhibiting additives. Decking stains with light coloured pigments are recommended as they absorb less heat and only slightly change the natural colour of the timber.

We advise regular upkeep of hardwood decking every 6 to 12 months depending on the exposure to elements e.g. sun and rain.

COMPOSITE DECK MAINTENANCE

Composite decking requires no sanding and oiling!

Of course, your deck will get dusty and dirty from normal living. To keep it looking at its best, regularly clean it with water using a mop or broom to remove any built-up dirt.

If you spill red wine, soy sauce, oil or other foodstuffs on the deck the best thing to do is to flush it immediately with water, and lightly scrub with warm soapy water.

To avoid scratching the deck, place furniture pads (or small squares of carpet) under your outdoor chairs. This will stop scratches from constantly sliding chairs in and out.

Around the pool, decking boards will not suffer from chlorinated pool water. However, be careful not to spill undiluted chlorine or pool salt directly onto the boards, as these are strong chemicals and may stain the boards. We recommend mixing your pool solutions away from the deck.

For more detailed information download the Care & Maintenance Guide:

Frequently Asked Questions

When does a deck need renovating rather than replacing?

If the subframe is sound and it’s the boards, balustrade or finish that have aged, renovation is usually the right call and it’s substantially cheaper than a full rebuild. If the framing is rotten, termite-damaged or moving, boards on top of it are lipstick. We assess the frame first — that’s the decision point, not how the surface looks.

Typically: lifting and disposing of old boards, inspecting and repairing the subframe, replacing damaged bearers or joists, re-laying new boards, upgrading or replacing the balustrade, and finishing. Renovations often also fix the things that always annoyed you — a step in the wrong place, no screening, nowhere for water to go. It’s the cheapest moment to solve those.

Re-decking over a sound existing frame typically runs well below a new build — commonly in the region of $250–$600/m² versus $350–$950/m² for a full new deck in Sydney. The variable is how much frame repair is needed once the boards come off, which nobody can see beforehand. We quote a base scope and a clear rate for any additional framing found.

Sometimes — if only a section has failed and the boards are still available in a matching profile and species. Be realistic about appearance: new hardwood next to twelve-year-old weathered hardwood will look new for a long time. If it’s a visible area, a full re-board and a fresh coat usually gives a better result than a patch you’ll notice every day.

Usually. Unprotected timber left exposed fades to silver-grey and can develop splitting and surface checking — that’s normal weathering, not necessarily failure. If the boards are structurally sound, a proper clean, debris removal from between boards, sanding where the finish requires it, and recoating to the manufacturer’s specification will bring it back. If boards are cupping badly or soft underfoot, they’re past it.

We advise regular upkeep every 6 to 12 months, depending on exposure to sun and rain. Before recoating, the deck should be thoroughly cleaned and debris cleared from between the boards; some finishes also need sanding. Light-pigmented decking stains are worth considering — they absorb less heat and only slightly change the timber’s natural colour.

Yes, and it’s one of the most worthwhile upgrades. A covered deck needs re-oiling far less often, the boards expand and contract less so there’s less splitting, warping and cupping, and it collects fewer leaves. Most importantly it’s usable year-round instead of only on pleasant days. We build pergolas and patios in-house, so it’s one project rather than two.

Yes — and doing it at renovation stage is much cleaner than retrofitting later, because posts and fixings can be integrated into the structure rather than bolted onto the outside of it. Decorative fencing and screening is one of our core service lines. It’s typically the change that has the biggest effect on whether people actually use the deck.

Less than a new build, but the honest answer is that it depends on what’s under the boards. A straight re-board on a sound frame is quick. Discovering rotten bearers on day two changes the program. We inspect as thoroughly as we can before quoting and set out clearly what happens — and what it costs — if we find more than expected.

We work across Greater Sydney and the Southern Highlands, including the Northern Beaches, Eastern Suburbs, North Shore, Sutherland Shire, Hills District and western suburbs such as Castle Hill and Blacktown. Send photos of your existing deck to admin@adoradecks.com.au or call 02 4666 3800 and we’ll arrange a free on-site assessment.